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[–]TheHaskman 13 points14 points15 points 11 years ago (2 children) | Copy Link
Here is a guide for buying suits: http://www.artofmanliness.com/2013/09/25/good-fitted-suit-visual/
Also, don't write like a girl. Smileys are mostly for women or for men who are texting a woman they are planning to fuck.
And you might want to post questions on r//asktrp instead of here. TRP main sub is for discussions and content, not for simple questions.
[–]O3EAN0 points1 point2 points 11 years ago (0 children) | Copy Link
Can confirm, Smiley's and emoticons are golden when talking to younger girls but they come off like you're a faggot if you're talking to guys.
[–]putsch807 points8 points9 points 11 years ago (5 children) | Copy Link
Here is my experience based on wearing a suit nearly everyday for years in a professional environment. If you're looking for a suit to go clubbing in, then what you want might be different, but most of this will still apply.
FIRST: Basic things to consider.
What color do you want? For most instances, a navy or charcoal suit will be proper, and those colors match nearly everything.
How is your build? If you are slight of frame, consider getting a slim fitting suit.
Pleats or flat front? Pleats tend to be for more professional environments; flat fronts are a little less formal, but can still be worn professionally. My favorite suit is flat front. For God's sake though, unless you are going back to 1990, don't get double pleats.
Do you want any patterns/textures on your suit? They can make it a little bit flashier, but can quickly go overboard. Subtle pinstripes can look awesome, but not everyone can pull of bold pinstripes.
SECOND: What will your use of the suit be?
If this will only be worn very occasionally, the construction of the suit won't matter quite as much, though, in general, a better constructed suit will usually offer a better fit than one of cheaper construction.
When it comes to suit construction, look for a suit that is at least half canvassed with pants that are lined to at least the knee. Canvas has nothing to do with the material on the outside of the suit; it has to do with material on the inside of the suit that holds its shape. A suit with no canvassing is called a fused suit. It is basically glued. Some fused suits are okay, but the lapels will typically start to look like shit after a couple of dry cleanings. Half canvassed suits cost more, but hold up better over the long haul (especially important if it gets worn frequently). A full canvassed suit is the best, but will cost even more. For a lot of people, half-canvassed will be okay.
Get a suit made of wool (or, if you can rock it, maybe searsucker or linen). Stay away from polyester and synthetics.
THIRD: Where to buy a suit
There are a couple of good options:
1) Department Store/Brooks Brothers/Men's Warehouse/Jos. A. Bank. These are off-the-rack ("OTR") suits. In all likelihood, you will need to get them tailored. Measurements tend to be fucked up, so don't be afraid to try on a size smaller; for example, if you get measure at a 44R, don't be afraid to try a 42R, as the fit will probably be better. You don't want baggy.
Also, beware of knockoff name brands. For example, Ralph Lauren has lots of suits at Macy's but many of them are shit. You can tell by the color of the label (I think green label are the worst, and black or purple are the best). There's lots of advice online about this; bottom line though is don't be enamored by brand names, because you're usually not getting what you pay for.
A decent department store suit will run you between $300-$700. Places like Brooks Brothers and Jos. A Bank have sales a lot. I know at Brooks Bros you can get a nice half canvassed suit (conservative cut) during their semi-annual sale in the $350 range. Jos. A Bank has a lot of shit suits, but some of their upper end stuff (5 star gold label, I think) is pretty decent with good wool and half canvas construction.
For any OTR suit, you will need to get it tailored. If you don't know a good tailor, ask around at work if you work with people who wear good looking suits. If you don't know any, look around at church. If that doesn't work, then stop a dapper gentleman on the street and inquire as to who he uses to alter his haberdashery purchases. The point is: a good tailor can make or break an OTR suit, rendering it looking cheap as shit or like a million bucks.
2) Online made to measure suit. There are now a ton of online places where you measure yourself, pick out the fabric, and they will make a suit for you and ship it to your door. I've personally used one call Black Lapel and had good luck, but there are many others. (Just search of something like "Online made to measure suit reviews"). Suits from these sites tend to be more modern cut. Nearly all are at least half canvas or full canvas construction with a decent wool. They also offer a lot of customization, such as watch pockets, pick stitching, lapel style, monograming, lining colors, custom matching vests, etc..., so it can be a fantastic way to get a suit that is exactly what you want. Pricing will be higher, usually in the $400-$800 range. The suit will only be as good as your measurements, so invest in a good tailor tape measure, and get a friend to help you. Take all measurements twice, and watch some youtube videos on how to take measurements properly. Most companies like this will also give you a credit for any minor tailoring that needs to be done.
Bottom line:
Department store - Usually cheaper, but with less options for customization and colors, and usually more conservative styles.
Online made-to-measure - Usually a bit more expensive, but with many more options to get a suit to look exactly how you look.
In both instances, tailoring (either by the company making the suit or your tailor afterwards) is going to determine how good the suit looks on you, so do your homework!
Also, don't cheap out on a nice dress shirt and shoes. A good suit will look like shit with a cheap, see-through white shirt under it and a pair of Payless loafers on your feet.
[–]ObservantOmega0 points1 point2 points 11 years ago (1 child) | Copy Link
Suits from these sites tend to be more modern cut.
Unless you find a clothier who offers a large catalog of styles. My personal favorite is Magnoli Clothiers in NZ, they can offer you almost any style (they have an option for a custom suit).
[–]1favours_of_the_moon0 points1 point2 points 11 years ago (1 child) | Copy Link
Pleats are dead, far as I know. Are they coming back? lol
[–]putsch801 point2 points3 points 11 years ago (0 children) | Copy Link
This is debated, as flat front is certainly most popular right now. But from what I've read and seen, in certain environments (especially where a more conservative style of suit is proper, such as legal or financial), a single, reverse pleat is still very common and often more acceptable. If you are going out in a suit though, I would say flat front is probably better.
[–]redpillspeeddate0 points1 point2 points 11 years ago (0 children) | Copy Link
This is good, since this post got deleted by a mod, consider making it a main post
[–]1989TaylorSwift1 point2 points3 points 11 years ago (0 children) | Copy Link
Get it fitted, nothing looks worse than a suit that doesn't fit properly it. It conveys the image that you either don't care enough to look clean and cut, or you're too poor to buy one that fits right.
[–]0xdada 2 points2 points2 points 11 years ago [recovered] | Copy Link
I am actually an expert on this topic.
The best thing you can do in terms of value for money is to get a perfect navy blazer made to measure from a good hong kong or indian bespoke tailor. Made to measure is cheaper than full bespoke with many of the benefits. It is %100 appropriate anywhere in any situation, and you can wear it with jeans, grey flannels, khakis, linen, or even bermuda shorts. It makes you look confident in interviews, and chill at weddings.
Over the years I've bought suits from paul smith, canali, brooks bros, boss, and some more niche designers, and had suits made on saville row, along with some asian tailors. You do get what you pay for at the upper end. But, if you want something that gives you an effortless quality people can't put their finger on for the price of a starter designer suit, go indian made-to-measure blazer. Best $6-800 you will spend. It's a good intro to bespoke, and you will never go back to the rack. A tailor probably makes a visit to your city a few times a year to take orders and you get them in about 6-8 weeks before the final fitting.
If you can't afford that in the short term, then get something off the clearance rack at brooks and do not wear it once until it comes back from your local tailor shop with the cuffs hemmed to the precise break, and the waist of the coat taken in for your frame.
[–]1oldredder-1 points0 points1 point 11 years ago [recovered] (4 children) | Copy Link
pffft
like 5% of places I've ever been would this be 100% appropriate. Almost everywhere it would be over-kill and people would think you're trying to run for an election or that you are trying to stand out on purpose in a try-hard, unwelcome manner.
Too fake unless it's a place where everyone is dressed up.
Anywhere you might wear a regular suit, a blazer is always appropriate.
By all means, go get a 3-piece and wear it with french cuffs, quirky cufflinks (you know, to show the real you), a pocket square, brown shoes and tie a double windsor with a tie bar. You might even want to throw in a pocket watch and a walking stick, just in case you hadn't worn everything else at once. I have no doubt complete strangers will comment how you look "so, classy."
[–]1oldredder0 points1 point2 points 11 years ago [recovered] (0 children) | Copy Link
of course context matters: if you'd already be in a suit that's an appropriate situation.
I think pocket-watches could make a comeback. Who wears a watch? We all have clocks built into our cell phones which go in the pocket. It really is a pocket-watch already, just a phone too. Why not class it up again ... where appropriate.
If you're rubbing elbows with the elite of the elite, then you can go balls out and drop all that extra money. But then if you're in that situation, you probably have it to drop.
[–]1oldredder1 point2 points3 points 11 years ago (0 children) | Copy Link
Indeed. They all rub me the wrong way. My near proximity is as much as I can take. I don't come from their elite families anyhow so they don't want me around. I would, at most, be a useful minion to them but some background checking would reveal I probably detest such things and so they wouldn't have me on. I wouldn't volunteer anyhow for the same reason.
[–]redpillspeeddate1 point2 points3 points 11 years ago (2 children) | Copy Link
Go to indochino.com and get a bespoke one made for you, costs about $400 bucks
[–]NightGod0 points1 point2 points 11 years ago (1 child) | Copy Link
Thanks for this. I've been planing to get a new suit made (my cheap OTR (tailored to fit) is getting a bit ragged) but debating the cost and this looks like a solid place to start my custom-made journey.
[–]redpillspeeddate1 point2 points3 points 11 years ago (0 children) | Copy Link
If you are near any of their tailor shops go in and get measured. I got a prince of whales suit from them and have done many many shirts from them. Slowly moving most of my wardrobe to bespoke from them.
Start off with a shirt, I recommend getting one with French cuffs. Even with a cheap pair of cuff link it's something that will get you noticed. Get your ties, pocket squares etc elsewhere as they are cheaper.
Christian McQueen has a ton of game focused suit and fashion advice http://realchristianmcqueen.com/tag/mens-fashion/
[–]beachbloke2 points3 points4 points 11 years ago* (0 children) | Copy Link
This should go in asktrp.
I have several suits and used to wear them daily. Purchasing a suit is a highly personal decision and who you are/what you look like changes advice dramatically.
I've had good experiences at Men's Warehouse. They acquired Joseph Abboud a few years ago and the quality has gone up. They now have a custom-tailored suit where you pick the fabrics & cut and they create it from scratch -- I recall they are around $700. I have a wool suit from that line and it is my best suit. Men's Warehouse also owns Jos. A Banks, but I have not been impressed with their suits.
That said, all of my other suits are off the rack and have served me well. I had dinner with the Toyota CCO who was recently in the news for prescription smuggling in a rack blue Calvin Klein suit and it went well.
Above all, have fun buying your suit. Its one of the nice experiences of being a man.
[–]220090 0 points1 point2 points 11 years ago (0 children) | Copy Link
Men's wear house (if you're in USA) has great sales frequently and their staff know what they're doing.
[–]Manmore0 points1 point2 points 11 years ago (0 children) | Copy Link
Are you only buying one? Definitely go for a really dark blue, NOT black. Black is for funerals only. If you're buying another, I'd keep it dark too.
Read the art of manliness article posted here so you know how a suit should fit, and no crappy salesman can make you buy something that doesn't fit. Everyone is different and sometimes you need to try a different suits in different stores to find a one that fits your body.
You say you hate shopping and want to do it in one hit. Are you uncomfortable spending time trying suits and maybe not finding one? Never buy something because you need it, buy it only if it truly fits. It may take some time.
[–]drallcom30 points1 point2 points 11 years ago (0 children) | Copy Link
Lifting + buying tailored cloths always seems like such a wasteful and expensive thing to me.
With my current progression all my non-tailored pants and shirts aren't going to fit anymore (mainly due to shoulders and thighs). I would love to have tailored cloths, especially since I have the money now, but I'm too frugal and smart to buy cloths I only wear a few times.
[–]CisWhiteMaelstrom 0 points1 point2 points 11 years ago (0 children) | Copy Link
I used to work at a men's wearhouse. Unlike workout supplement stores, suit stores are really trying to help you find the best fitting suit for a price that works. Go to men's wearhouse and talk to their associates. They'll find you a good suit and they've got a good return policy. If you can't afford a look but really really like it, let them know. They're really good at giving discounts.
[–]1favours_of_the_moon0 points1 point2 points 11 years ago* (0 children) | Copy Link
Find some thrift stores in good neighborhoods. There's usually one or two in every area where you can get good designer shit for pennies on the dollar. I can give you a list of designers if you want.
Examine the garment to make sure it's not stained or damaged. Know what fits you, but afterward get it fitted by a tailor. No bullshit, I've got Armani, Ralph Lauren, Joseph Abboud, Liz Claiborne, Banana Repugnant, all kinds of shit, nice suits and sport coat/pant combo's.
Buy every designer tie you see at a thrift, as long as it's not damaged. Build up a huge collection, you'll be able to roughly match with anything. You don't want a perfect match or you'll look like it's your only suit that your mom bought you for your cousin's wedding.
If you don't want thrifts, you can try consignment stores too, but they will be about 90-95% for women.
Anyway like I said, then take the shit to a good tailor and pay $11 or whatever it is to get it fitted to you. You'll look awesome. Get some tuxedos too. I've been finding alot of that shit the last few years, you'll need it for Freemasonry. ;)
Don't worry about necessarily finding a whole tux all at once either. Get a lot of tux parts and mix and match. For example, I have a black and white herringbone vest that I wear instead of a cummerbund. Looks classic.
For shoes, same thing. Get something designer. Frankly I like just some black shit kicker boots, they're pretty versatile, but if you're going somewhere super formal get some nice shoes.
I tend to go for more classic shit, try not to get too trendy. You want stuff that will hold up over time.
[–]ModRedSovereign0 points1 point2 points 11 years ago (0 children) | Copy Link
Post questions to /r/asktrp.
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[–]TheHaskman 13 points14 points15 points (2 children) | Copy Link
[–]O3EAN0 points1 point2 points (0 children) | Copy Link
[–]putsch807 points8 points9 points (5 children) | Copy Link
[–]ObservantOmega0 points1 point2 points (1 child) | Copy Link
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[–]putsch801 point2 points3 points (0 children) | Copy Link
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[–]1989TaylorSwift1 point2 points3 points (0 children) | Copy Link
[–]0xdada 2 points2 points2 points [recovered] | Copy Link
[–]1oldredder-1 points0 points1 point [recovered] (4 children) | Copy Link
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